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Acne fall 25

3/5/2025

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Set against a towering skyline that felt like a modern mirage, the show also featured artworks this time woven installations by Swedish design duo Front, which resonated with many wool looks and bodysuits in wool (!) as proposed by Stockholm based brand. The collection is inspired by the dichotomy between polished metropolitan lifestyle and organic shapes from the Scandinavian nature. It seems as a contrast but works well in fluid and oversized silhouettes proposed this season
Silhouettes carry a softer shoulder line, with rounded sleeves that hint at past notions of yuppie power dressing as in the 1980s business jacket, but much softer executed. Famous for draped fabrics and slinky bodysuits that emit a 1970s groove. Hemlines are noticeably shorter, and leg-defining slits pair with second-skin stockings. Scarves once used as neckwear have been reinvented as tops and dresses, playfully twisting tradition.

Materials underscore the recurring theme of contradiction. There’s a deliberate mix of leather treatments—some smooth and bonded, others creased and warped by hand-washing. Faux fur and flocked denim appear side by side, evoking the feel of a well-worn plush toy. At the same time, certain pieces are featherlight and gauzy, cut on the bias to follow the body’s shape. Denim remains a key element, with freeze-frame creases and vinyl bonding that give it a time-capsule effect.

Contrasting textures of leather: the smooth and bonded, versus undulating and warped, handwashed to
create a crinkled finishing. The softness and wear of a well-loved teddy bear is evoked in layers of faux fur
and shearling, or a new flocked finish on denim. Some fabrics are more lightweight and transparent, cut on
the bias. The exploration of denim continues; creases are preserved as if the garment has been frozen in
time or bonded across its surface with vinyl.

A warm mix of brown, oat, honey, and beige, paired with bold 1970s-inspired shades of Bordeaux red,
purple, and gold. Black adds a graphic touch. A sense of illusion: clothing projected onto clothing, warped, and shifted in context. Polka dots that are teddy bears. Nostalgic checks and plaids; a more graphic stripe.
Menswear archetypes are subverted: a classic penny loafer is ‘broken,’ becoming a boot or heel. Luxurious textures: faux ostrich, lizard, and alligator.

The new Camero Hotel shape debuts as a supersized version of the Camero family bag, presented in red and light beige suede, alongside the Camero Camera and Camero Party. The new Multipocket bucket bag is introduced as part of the existing Multipocket family and the Bowlina arrives in fresh colours and textures, including faux ostrich and shearling.

Jewellery pieces recall items found on an office desk, with pendants shaped like luxury pens and notebooks
in silver and gold. Belts are adorned with bold, heart-shaped plaques, while aviator sunglasses come in an
oversized style. See details below courtesy of Acne Studios.
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    Geneva

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