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Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu delivered what can only be described as an aproncentric spectacle—an ode to domestic labor that was as literal as it was perplexing. The brand, still riding the crest of commercial triumph and cultural dominance, took a sharp turn from its flirtations with micro-minimalism and coquettish rebellion to something that resembled a cafeteria shift. It was a study in uniforms, industrial fabrics, and the strange allure of utility, though whether it amounted to actual desirability is another matter.
The venue itself set the tone: Formica tables replaced front-row seating, PVC curtains replaced glamour, and Sandra Hüller—fresh from the awards circuit—opened the show in what looked like an assembly-line daydream. The message, ostensibly, was about honoring women’s labor through clothing. Yet the execution oscillated between earnest social commentary and ironic self-parody. The models appeared as waitresses, welders, and housekeepers, their aprons layered over wool skirts and double-knit tops as though Prada were reminding her audience that workwear, too, can be commodified. As the show progressed, the apron evolved from functional to fantastical. Leather bibs, crystal embroidery, and lace overlays elevated it from factory floor to cocktail hour, though the transformation often bordered on absurd. One couldn’t help but feel that in her effort to reframe the humble garment as a luxury statement, Prada had stripped it of its sincerity. A black lace apron worn over a bikini seemed less a tribute to working women than a clever, if cynical, exercise in fashion irony. There was undeniable technical finesse—industrial drill cottons tailored with surgical precision, delicate ruffles positioned like architectural embellishments—but the concept suffocated under its own self-awareness. What was once subversive at Miu Miu now felt staged, a commentary on labor filtered through the lens of those who will never lift anything heavier than a smartphone. The show’s intellectual rigor couldn’t disguise the hollow ring of its message, nor could the sparkle of its embellishments. Still, the collection will sell, and sell well. The irony, of course, is that Miu Miu’s apron may soon hang in the closets of the very women it purports to represent—those with time to muse about authenticity between fashion week dinners. In attempting to make the utilitarian glamorous, Prada reminded us that even rebellion, at Miu Miu, comes perfectly hemmed and logo-tagged. The aproncentric vision, for all its conceptual weight, left one wondering if perhaps this was less a celebration of women’s work than a masterclass in the art of fashionable detachment. |
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October 2025
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