VIKTOR&ROLF HAUTE COUTURE SPRING-SUMMER 2025

A trench coat for spring is not what is associated with summer wardrobes as much as with London and rainy fall days? But in the surreal world of  Viktor & Rolf haute couture, everything is possible, and the multiple interpretations of this garment cleaverly merge day and evening wear as surprisingly fitting as the exclusive  handmade garments where teh designer duo again pushes the borders of impossible in the haute couture. Equally surprising is the exclusive focus on the trench beige color when we are used to more colorful (with some exceptions) shown by the Dutch duo.


Inspiration comes from a Karl Lagerfeld quite the show notes explain, "I am like a computer, plugged into Chanel mode." This remark, made over 40 years ago, feels more relevant than ever today: man as an extension of the computer, and a fashion brand's heritage as a collection of data, ready for processing, argues the designer duo Viktor & Rolf.

The Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Viktor & Rolf has a number of incredibly varied variants on a single ensemble: blue jeans, a white shirt, and a beige trench. Although honoring the history and customs of couture, the collection creates a whimsical, Humans are blind to the infinite potential of artificial intelligence.

This collection's purposefully contrasting images (long, short, day, night, crumpled; usage of a single cloth unifies many styles (baroque, minimalist, clean, etc.): silk gazar from Coli Ruto. Viktor & Rolf's Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1999 is referenced in this selection.

‘Blacklight’ collection, crafted entirely from the final rolls of silk gazar developed by Balenciaga in collaboration with the now-defunct Swiss producer Abraham.

The collection proposes multiple variations on Viktor&Rolf's house codes of rules and bows in a style that is baroque and boldly decorative, yet severe and minimal. The presentation itself playfully subverts the codes of a couture show, with an AI ladyspeaker announcing each exit, like couture prompts.

The collection is meticulously crafted from luxurious Italian silk gazar, sourced from RuTo Coli—an esteemed family-run business and a cornerstone of the renowned Como silk and textile district. With 900 meters of fabric transformed through a range of intricate techniques, the collection unfolds across 24 looks. Models grace the runway in custom brown satin heels and flats by Christian Louboutin, each look further elevated by vintage jewelry curated by Droomfabriek Amsterdam.